Table of content
Secondary double layer milk custardAfter devouring a dozen steaming dumplings and savoring every last bite of roasted goose, what do the locals in Guangzhou crave next? Sugar. But not just any sugar – a specific, centuries-old balance of sweet, warm, cool, and creamy that makes Cantonese desselocalsrts a world of their own.
Forget the generic ice cream chains you’ll find in any mall. In Guangzhou, dessert is an adventure. It’s a late-night bowl of tong sui (sweet soup) in a tiny Liwan alley, a silky double-layer milk custard that takes two days to make, and a heritage bing sutt (ice room) that has somehow survived without air conditioning for decades. And yes, we’ll also hunt down the city’s best modern fluffy shaved ice – the kind that melts like snow on your tongue.
Here’s your roadmap for this sweet journey:
We’ll start with the soul of Cantonese desserts – Tong Sui – and the three legendary shops on Wenming Road. Then, we’ll dive into the milky classics: Double-Layer Milk Custard and Ginger Milk Curd, followed by a rare stop at Guangzhou’s last surviving Bing Sutt (ice room). Finally, we’ll cool off with the city’s newest obsession: Fluffy Shaved Ice (Mian Mian Bing) and modern hidden gems in Tianhe and Longdong.
By the end of this guide, you won’t just know where to eat – you’ll understand how the locals cool down, socialize, and satisfy their sweet cravings in Guangzhou’s humid heat. Ready? Let’s dig in.
🥣 SECTION 1: Tong Sui (糖水) – The Sweet Soul of Canton
What is Tong Sui?
If you wander through Guangzhou’s old districts like Liwan or Yuexiu after 9 PM, you’ll notice something curious. Small shops with fluorescent lights suddenly fill with people – young couples, elderly men with fans, students on their phones. They’re not here for dinner. They’re here for tong sui (literally “sugar water”), a family of sweet, brothy desserts that Cantonese people have been slurping for generations.
Tong sui isn’t thick like pudding or frozen like ice cream. It’s light, often served warm or chilled, and balances sweetness with other flavors – a hint of salt, a touch of bitterness from aged orange peel, or the earthy richness of black sesame. In Cantonese food philosophy, dessert isn’t an afterthought. It’s a closing ritual that restores harmony after a heavy meal.
Most Popular Types You’ll Find:
1. Traditional Cantonese Cold Desserts (Tong Sui)
| Dessert Name | Main Ingredients | Vibe & Texture |
|---|---|---|
| Red Bean Soup (Hong Dou Sha) | Red beans, Tangerine peel | Sweet, creamy, and classic |
| Mung Bean Soup (Lü Dou Sha) | Mung beans, Kelp | Refreshing & detoxifying for summer |
| Black Sesame Soup (Zhi Ma Hu) | Roasted black sesame | Rich, nutty, and silky smooth |
| Double Skin Milk (Shuang Pi Nai) | Buffalo milk, Egg whites | Velvety custard, very famous in GZ |
🏆 Top 3 Tong Sui Shops in Guangzhou
These three shops are all located on Wenming Road (文明路) in Yuexiu District – a stretch locals call “Dessert Street.” They’ve been competing for customers for decades, and each has its own loyal following.
1. Baihua Dessert (百花甜品店) – The Legend
· Why go here: Over 400 items on the menu. Yes, four hundred. Baihua is the oldest and most famous tong sui shop in Guangzhou, with a history spanning more than 30 years. Their menu covers the wall like a giant spreadsheet – overwhelming but thrilling.
· What to order: Xia San Bao (夏三宝) – “Three Treasures of Summer” – a refreshing mix of red bean, mung bean, and coconut milk. Also try their black sesame soup for a classic.
· Address: 208 Wenming Road, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou
· Vibe: Bright fluorescent lights, plastic stools, zero Instagram aesthetics – but packed every single night. This is the real deal.
· Local tip: Bring cash or have Alipay ready. No English menu, but pointing at the wall works fine.
2. Rose Dessert (玫瑰甜品店) – The Elegant Neighbor
· Why go here: Just a few doors down from Baihua, Rose Dessert offers a slightly lighter, less sweet version of the classics. The shop is smaller, cozier, and decorated with vintage wooden partitions and embroidered curtains.
· What to order: Almond soup (杏仁糊) – silky, fragrant, and not overpowering. Their mango pomelo sago is also excellent.
· Address: 218 Wenming Road, Yuexiu District (next to Zhongshan Library)
· Vibe: Quaint, almost like a mini museum. Quieter than Baihua, with more attention to presentation.
· Local tip: They close earlier than Baihua – aim to arrive before 10 PM.
3. Shawan Dessert House (沙湾甜品食馆) – The Hidden Gem
· Why go here: Tucked inside a residential alley on Xihua Road (not on Wenming Road), this is where locals go when they want to avoid tourists entirely. Shawan specializes in desserts from the Shunde region, known for their milk-based creations.
· What to order: Double-layered milk custard (双皮奶) and ginger milk curd (姜撞奶) – more on these in the next section.
· Address: 33, Diyijin Street, Xihua Road, Yuexiu District (inside a housing complex)
· Vibe: No-nonsense, fluorescent-lit, surrounded by laundry hanging from balconies. Pure local life.
· Local tip: Follow your GPS carefully – it’s easy to miss the entrance.
🗺️ Dessert Street Snapshot: Wenming Road
If you only have one night for tong sui in Guangzhou, go to Wenming Road. Baihua and Rose are within a two-minute walk of each other. Try one bowl at Baihua, then walk next door to Rose for comparison. Locals debate which is better – decide for yourself.
How to get there: Take Metro Line 1 to Peasant Movement Institute Station (农讲所站), Exit A. Walk south for 5 minutes. You’ll see the bright signs.
🥛 SECTION 2: The Milky Quartet – Double-Layer Custard & Ginger Milk Curd
Two Desserts That Changed Cantonese Sweets Forever
If tong sui is the soul of Cantonese desserts, then milk-based sweets are the heart. Guangzhou and its neighboring city of Shunde (just 30 minutes away by train) have perfected the art of turning simple ingredients – fresh buffalo milk, sugar, ginger, and eggs – into silky, magical creations that feel both ancient and modern.
Two desserts stand above the rest. One is gentle, creamy, and layered like a secret. The other is theatrical, spicy, and solidifies right before your eyes.
1. Double-Layer Milk Custard (双皮奶 – Shuāng Pí Nǎi)
What is it?
At first glance, it looks like a simple bowl of white pudding. But shuang pi nai is deceptively complex. It’s made by heating fresh buffalo milk, steaming it, letting a skin (the “first layer”) form, then carefully puncturing that skin to pour the milk out, mixing it with egg whites and sugar, and pouring it back under the skin before steaming again. The result is a second skin on top and a silky, custard-like texture underneath. Two layers. One bowl. Decades of tradition.
Where did it come from?
Shunde, a district famous for its dairy farms and culinary obsession. Locals there have been making shuang pi nai for over a hundred years. Today, you’ll find it all over Guangzhou – but some shops do it better than others.
2. Ginger Milk Curd (姜撞奶 – Jiāng Zhuàng Nǎi)
What is it?
This one is a performance. Fresh ginger is juiced into a bowl. Hot, sweetened buffalo milk (heated to exactly 70-80°C) is poured from a height directly into the ginger juice. Then… you wait. For exactly two minutes. Without stirring. Without moving the bowl. When you gently place a spoon on the surface, it sits there. The milk has curdled into a soft, silky, fragrant pudding – spicy from the ginger, sweet from the milk, and utterly unique.
Why does it work?
Ginger contains an enzyme (zingerain) that reacts with the milk protein. Heat and timing are everything. Too hot, and it becomes bitter. Too cold, and it stays liquid. The best shops have been doing this thousands of times.
🏆 Top Milk Dessert Shops in Guangzhou
1. Nanxin Milk Dessert Expert (南信牛奶甜品专家) – The King of Shangxiajiu
· Why go here: Over 90 years old. Located on the famous Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street. Nanxin is the name in Guangzhou for double-layer milk custard. Their version is thick, eggy, and unmistakably rich.
· What to order: Original double-layer milk custard (原味双皮奶) – served warm. Also try their steamed milk with ginger if you want something milder.
· Address: No. 47 Dishifu Road, Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street, Liwan District
· Vibe: Bright, busy, slightly touristy but in an authentic way. Stained glass windows and old-school Cantonese decor. Expect to share a table with strangers.
· Local tip: Go on a weekday morning if possible. Evenings and weekends are packed with shoppers.
2. Renxin Double-Layer Milk Custard (仁信双皮奶) – The Worthy Rival
· Why go here: Renxin is Nanxin’s friendly competitor – also old, also excellent. Some locals swear Renxin is creamier. Others say Nanxin is more authentic. The only way to know? Try both.
· What to order: Double-layer milk custard (of course) and their red bean topping version for extra sweetness.
· Address: 83 Dongchuan Road, Yuexiu District
· Vibe: More low-key than Nanxin. Fewer tourists, more neighborhood regulars.
· Local tip: They also serve savory Cantonese snacks like fried milk rolls – a unique appetizer before dessert.
3. Zhaoji Chuancheng (赵记传承) – The Modern Showman
· Why go here: Zhaoji is a modern chain (yes, chain – but a good one) that has perfected the theater of ginger milk curd. They bring the ginger juice to your table, then pour the hot milk from a small kettle right in front of you. A tiny hourglass is placed next to your bowl. When the sand runs out… it’s ready.
· What to order: Ginger milk curd (姜撞奶) – this is their signature. Also try their mango pomelo sago for a fruity contrast.
· Address (multiple locations): One convenient branch is near Beijing Road. Search for “赵记传承” on your map.
· Vibe: Clean, modern, Instagram-friendly. Wooden tables, warm lighting, and a younger crowd.
· Local tip: Watch the pouring process carefully – it’s over in 10 seconds, but it’s beautiful.
4. Shawan Dessert House (沙湾甜品食馆) – Already Mentioned, But Worth Repeating
As noted in Section 1, this hidden gem on Xihua Road makes excellent shuang pi nai and jiang zhuang nai – often with less sugar and more authentic Shunde character. If you want to avoid crowds and feel like a local, go here.
🧑🍳 How to Order Like a Local
👨🍳 How to Order Like a Local
| You want… | Say this (or point) |
|---|---|
| Double-layer milk custard | “一碗双皮奶” (yī wǎn shuāng pí nǎi) |
| Ginger milk curd | “一碗姜撞奶” (yī wǎn jiāng zhuàng nǎi) |
| Cold version (Summer) | “冻” (dòng de) |
| Warm version (Winter) | “热的” (rè de) |
| Less sweet | “少甜” (shǎo tián) |
💡 Pro Tip: Shunde Day Trip
If you’re serious about milk desserts, take a 30-minute high-speed train from Guangzhou South Station to Shunde. This is the birthplace of shuang pi nai and jiang zhuang nai. The milk there is fresher (often straight from buffalo farms), and the shops are even more specialized. But if you’re staying in Guangzhou, the four shops above will give you an excellent taste.
🍧 Section 3: Bing Sutt (冰室) – The Historic Ice Room That Refuses to Die
Before Air Conditioning, There Was Shunji
Imagine Guangzhou before air conditioning. Summer temperatures soar past 35°C (95°F). Humidity sticks to your skin like a second layer. The only escape? A bing sutt – literally an “ice room.”
These were the original dessert cafes of southern China. Part ice cream parlor, part coffee shop, part neighborhood cooling station. In the 1930s through the 1980s, bing sutt were everywhere in Guangzhou and Hong Kong. Families would gather after dinner. Teenagers would go on dates. Workers would stop by for a cold drink before heading home.
Then air conditioning arrived. Modern cafes and international chains took over. One by one, the old bing sutt closed their doors. Today, in all of Guangzhou, only ONE remains independently operated, still making its ice cream by hand, still serving the same recipes from decades ago.
❄️ Shunji Ice Room (顺记冰室) – The Last Survivor
What makes it special?
Guangzhou’s sweet
Shunji opened in the 1930s in the heart of Liwan District, back when this area was the commercial center of Guangzhou. While other bing sutt have been replaced by bubble tea shops and KFCs, Shunji keeps going – stubborn, old-school, and gloriously unrenovated in all the right ways.
They still make their ice cream by hand using traditional methods. No industrial machines. No artificial stabilizers. Just fresh ingredients, patience, and decades of muscle memory.
What to order:
🍨 What to Order: Best Picks
| Dish | Why it’s Famous |
|---|---|
| Coconut Ice Cream (椰子雪糕) | Their signature! Won a gold medal at a national competition. Creamy, fragrant, with tiny shreds of real coconut. |
| Durian Ice Cream (榴莲雪糕) | For the adventurous! Intense, pungent, and loved by durian fans. Not for beginners. |
| Red Bean Ice (红豆冰) | Crushed ice, sweetened red beans, evaporated milk — a classic bing sutt drink. |
| Steamed Milk with Ginger (姜汁撞奶) | The same one from Section 2 — but Shunji’s version has an old-school charm. |
Address: No. 83 Baohua Road, Liwan District, Guangzhou
Vibe: Don’t expect aesthetics. Fluorescent lights. Worn tile floors. Plastic menu boards handwritten in Chinese. The air conditioner is weak (ironic for an ice room), but the ice cream is cold. You’ll see elderly couples sitting quietly, families with children, and the occasional curious tourist with a camera. It feels like stepping into 1985.
Local tip: Order the coconut ice cream and the red bean ice. Eat the ice cream first (it melts fast), then sip the drink. Total cost: around 30-40 RMB ($4-6 USD).
How to get there:
Take Metro Line 1 to Chen Clan Academy Station (陈家祠站), Exit C. Walk southeast on Baohua Road for about 10 minutes. Look for the green sign: 顺记冰室.
📸 What to Photograph at Shunji
· The handwritten menu board on the wall.
· A spoonful of coconut ice cream with visible coconut shreds.
· The worn counter and vintage stools.
· Your red bean ice next to a traditional Chinese dessert bowl.
🧠 Why Shunji Matters
Shunji isn’t just a dessert shop. It’s a living museum of Guangzhou’s food culture. In a city that changes its skyline every year, Shunji has stayed the same for nearly a century. Eating here isn’t about the best ice cream of your life (though the coconut is excellent). It’s about tasting a piece of history — the last breath of an era when “air conditioning” meant a bowl of ice cream and a wooden fan.
⚠️ Important Note for Visitors
· Cash or Alipay/WeChat Pay : No credit cards.
· No English menu : Point at pictures or use the Chinese names above.
· Go before 9 PM : They close earlier than modern dessert chains.
· Manage expectations : This is not a “vibey” cafe. It’s a local institution. Embrace the simplicity.
🍨 SECTION 4: Modern Obsessions – Fluffy Shaved Ice & Hidden Gems
From Traditional to Trendy: Guangzhou’s New Wave of Cool
While the old guard of tong sui and bing sutt still holds a special place in locals’ hearts, a new generation of dessert lovers has fallen for something else: fluffy shaved ice.
You’ve seen shaved ice before – the coarse, crunchy kind drenched in syrup. This is different. Mian mian bing (绵绵冰), literally “cotton-cotton ice,” is made from frozen blocks of sweetened milk or fruit puree, shaved so finely that it falls in soft, ribbon-like layers that melt on your tongue like snow. It’s lighter than ice cream, creamier than sorbet, and endlessly customizable with toppings like fresh mango, chewy tapioca pearls, red bean, or even durian.
Alongside fluffy ice, a new wave of modern dessert shops has emerged – sleek, Instagram-friendly, and often hidden in residential complexes or back alleys. These are the places where Guangzhou’s youth go after work, where couples share a towering bowl of mango snow ice, and where you’ll find flavors that would make your grandmother raise an eyebrow (cheese foam? Oreo crumble? Yes.)
🏆 Top Modern Dessert Shops in Guangzhou
1. Bingbingjiang Fluffy Ice (冰冰酱绵绵冰) – The Student Favorite
Guangzhou sweet
· Why go here: Located in Longdong (龙洞), the university district, this shop is famous for two things: massive portions and low prices. Their fluffy ice is made from frozen milk, resulting in a creamy, slightly sweet base that pairs perfectly with fresh fruit.
· What to order: Mango Milk Fluffy Ice (鲜奶芒果绵绵冰) – a mountain of cottony ice topped with real mango chunks and condensed milk. Also try their matcha red bean version.
· Address: Shop 5, Longdong Commercial Pedestrian Street, Tianhe District (near Guangdong University of Technology)
· Vibe: Casual, loud, full of students on their phones. Plastic chairs, bright lights, zero pretension.
· Local tip: Go during lunchtime on a weekday if you want a seat. Evenings are packed.
2. Yushi Ice Room (余时冰室) – The Hidden Aesthetic Gem
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· Why go here: Tucked inside a quiet residential compound in Tianhe’s Liuyun Xiaoqu (六运小区), Yushi is a small, beautifully designed shop that has become a favorite among Guangzhou’s young creatives. Their fluffy ice is lighter and less sweet than Bingbingjiang’s, with more emphasis on texture and presentation.
· What to order: Sea Salt Cheese Foam Fluffy Ice (海盐芝士绵绵冰) – sounds weird, tastes amazing. The salty-sweet contrast is addictive. Also try their taro coconut flavor.
· Address: No. 13, Liuyun Sanjie, Tianhe District (inside Liuyun Xiaoqu – follow the map carefully)
· Vibe: Minimalist, warm wood tones, soft lighting. Feels more like a Kyoto cafe than a Guangzhou dessert shop. Quiet enough for a solo visit or a first date.
· Local tip: This is a popular spot for photos. Be respectful of other customers, and try to visit on a weekday afternoon.
3. Wudai Tongtang (五代同糖) – The Creative Innovator
Guangzhou sweet
· Why go here: Located near Beijing Road (right across from the Great Buddha Temple), Wudai Tongtang is known for pushing boundaries. Their menu includes everything from traditional tong sui to modern “snow ice” creations topped with unexpected ingredients like cheese foam, roasted nuts, and even spicy flakes.
· What to order: Mango Pomelo Sago Snow Ice (杨枝甘露雪花冰) – a frozen take on the classic Cantonese dessert. Also try their black glutinous rice with coconut milk for something heartier.
· Address: 590 Huifu East Road, Yuexiu District (opposite the Great Buddha Temple), Beijing Road area
· Vibe: Modern, slightly upscale, with comfortable booths and friendly service. A good choice if you’re shopping on Beijing Road and need a sit-down break.
· Local tip: Order the mango snow ice and a hot bowl of black sesame tong sui – the contrast is wonderful.
4. Four Seasons Durian Mango Ice (四季榴芒冰) – For Durian Daredevils
· Why go here: As the name suggests, this shop specializes in two polarizing fruits: durian and mango. If you love durian, this is your paradise. If you don’t… maybe stick to the mango.
· What to order: Durian Watermelon Ice (榴莲西瓜冰) – a massive bowl of fluffy ice layered with fresh durian pulp and watermelon chunks. Intensely fragrant, creamy, and unforgettable. Also try their pure mango fluffy ice if durian isn’t your thing.
· Address: Alley near Xiangxue Subway Station Exit E, Huangpu District (check their Xiaohongshu page for exact directions – they move occasionally)
· Vibe: Tiny, no-frills, often with a line outside. The focus is entirely on the fruit.
· Local tip: Eat the durian ice outside if you’re sensitive to the smell. Your hotel room will thank you.
🗺️ Bonus: Liuyun Xiaoqu – Guangzhou’s Hidden Dessert Village
If you visit Yushi Ice Room (above), you’ll find yourself in Liuyun Xiaoqu (六运小区) , a residential complex in Tianhe that has quietly become a hub for independent dessert shops and cafes. Wander through the alleyways, and you’ll discover:
- Handmade gelato shops
- Korean-style bingsu cafes
- Taiwanese bubble tea specialists
- French-style patisseries
This is where Guangzhou’s young, trend-aware crowd goes. No chains. No flashy signs. Just small, passionate owners experimenting with flavors. Spend an afternoon here, and you’ll eat well.
How to get there: Take Metro Line 1 or Line 3 to Tiyu Xilu Station (体育西路站), Exit H. Walk into the residential compound. Explore.
🗺️ Dessert Map: 3 Self-Guided Routes
Choose your adventure based on your location and mood.
Route 1: The Heritage Trail (Liwan & Yuexiu)
Perfect for: History lovers, first-time visitors, anyone who wants to eat like a local from 1980
1. Start at Shunji Ice Room (Baohua Road) – order coconut ice cream.
2. Walk to Wenming Road – try Baihua and Rose back-to-back.
3. End at Nanxin on Shangxiajiu – double-layer milk custard.
Time needed: 3-4 hours (including walking and waiting).
Route 2: The Modern Hunt (Tianhe)
Perfect for: Young travelers, Instagram enthusiasts, fluffy ice addicts
1. Start at Liuyun Xiaoqu – explore the alleyways and try Yushi Ice Room.
2. Walk or take a short metro to Longdong – visit Bingbingjiang for a massive fluffy ice bowl.
3. End at Wudai Tongtang near Beijing Road – mango snow ice.
Time needed: 4-5 hours (the residential alleys take time to explore).
Route 3: The Milk Purist (Quick & Focused)
Perfect for: Anyone with limited time who wants the absolute best milk desserts
1. Go to Nanxin on Shangxiajiu – double-layer milk custard.
2. Walk 15 minutes to Zhaoji Chuancheng (Beijing Road branch) – watch them pour the ginger milk curd.
3. Compare. Decide which you prefer.
Time needed: 2 hours.
💡 Quick Travel Tips for Dessert Hunters
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Best time to go | After 8 PM, dessert shops come alive. For quieter visits, go between 2 PM and 5 PM. |
| Payment | Alipay and WeChat Pay are universal. Cash is accepted almost everywhere. Credit cards are rare. |
| Language | Menus are almost always in Chinese only. Use the names and photos in this guide to point. |
| Sweetness level | Traditional desserts can be very sweet. If you prefer less sugar, say “少甜” (shǎo tián). |
| Takeaway | Most shops offer takeaway containers. Fluffy ice melts fast – eat immediately. |
| Group ordering | Portions are often large. Share 2-3 items between two people to try more flavors. |
🎬 Conclusion: A Sweet Invitation
Guangzhou is known for dim sum, roast goose, and seafood. But the city’s dessert scene
– from century-old tong sui shops to hidden fluffy ice gems
– is just as worthy of your attention.
Whether you’re cooling down from summer humidity, satisfying a late-night craving, or simply curious about how Cantonese people balance heat, cold, sweet, and savory, there’s a bowl waiting for you.
Start with the classics on Wenming Road. Challenge your palate with ginger milk curd. Pay your respects at Shunji, the last surviving bing sutt. Then treat yourself to a mountain of fluffy mango snow ice in a hidden Tianhe alley.
Your sweet journey through Guangzhou is just a plane ride away. And when you get there? Eat dessert first.
Enjoyed this guide? Share it with a fellow traveler. Got a favorite dessert spot we missed? Leave a comment below.